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Photography, User Review Pages by Herman J. Muller
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Published 6/15/2009
The Intent
It is not the intent of the writer to explain the technical details of High Dynamic Range Photography, its methods used and/or the instruction of making HDR images but only to explain a practical user explanation and an approach to make and process such images with the writers own equipment and/or today's available equipment and software. For starters, I like to refer the reader to a web site with astonishing images demonstrating the results when applying High Definition Range photography.

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/cambridge-gallery.htm

http://www.pixelandpoly.com/nyc_in_hdr.htm

This site is composed of detailed information and a large impressive gallery by Sean T. McHugh. PhD.. Go there and come back here and read the rest.

A Little History
High dynamic range imaging (HDR) is a set of image taking and processing techniques that allows a greater dynamic range of luminance's between light and dark areas of a scene than normal digital imaging techniques. The objective of HDR is to get a better representation within the wide range of intensity levels found in real scenes ranging from direct sunlight to shadows. This technique is not new and had been used in the interior and architectural photography for years producing image of building interiors and exterior scenery seemingly having the same luminosity and exposure values for both.

In real life situations, when one stands inside a room observing the interior, the interior appears to be illuminated sufficient or adequate to see detail. If one looks outside the interior through an open window or doorway into a well lit outside location, the detail of the view is clearly visible as well. The reason for this is that the eye makes the adjustment between the two light levels instantly. The camera however does not have that capability therefore producing an image correctly exposed for the interior and over exposed for the outside light levels or, correctly exposed for the outside illumination and under exposed for the inside.

High dynamic range imaging was originally developed in the 1930s and 1940s by Charles Wyckoff who did extensive experimentation with bracketed exposure techniques and "sandwiching" the correct-under-over exposed images into one image. Under exposed images have better detail in the brighter part of the image where over exposed images have better detail in the shadow parts of the image and the correct exposed image has better detail in the mid range and lost detail in both upper and lower part of the exposure range. Sandwiching the three or more different exposed images together combines the best of all  into one image therefore showing a wider dynamic visual range of the scenery photographed.

The process of tone mapping together with bracketed exposures of normal images, giving the end result a high, sometimes exaggerated dynamic range, was first reported in 1988. In 1995 a paper was published by Steve Mann and Rosalind Picard discussing a mathematical theory regarding differently exposed pictures of the same subject matter and combining them into one high resolution image.

In 1997 this technique of combining several differently exposed images to produce a single (HDR) image was presented to the computer graphics community by Paul Debevec and the method to produce a high dynamic range image from a set of photographs taken with a range, usually of  three or more exposures, was officially coined High  Dynamic Range Imaging.  With the rising popularity and capabilities of digital cameras and consequent computer software, the term HDR is now universally used to refer to this process.

What do I need?
One can use just about any camera, including film, to make three manual exposures of a still scene about two stops apart. That however, would be the hard way of doing it. A better way would be to use a good quality digital camera such as a Canon and the like with automatic bracketing abilities. One needs a tripod (for sure), a cable release (or you can use the self-timer) and an instruction card with the sequence of settings to be used. This may sound funny, but in the heat of the battle it is easy to forget a setting and wiping-out the effort.

In  the event of outside night photography, a sensitive light meter is needed to calculate the bracketing or stop spread from the nominal. A small flashlight and an assistant to help and  hold things is a nice addition.

Shooting Conditions
Indoors and outdoors, both have different requirements. Indoor (studio) scenes without people and/or other moving things are simple other than composition, illumination and considerations for outside scenery visible through windows and/or doors. below is a simple inside/outside scene demonstration of plantation shutters on an outside door bracketed 1.5 stop apart.

Nominal

Nominal + 1.5

Nominal -1.5

HDR Result

The above images were made with a Canon 50D and auto-bracketed one stop plus and minus of the auto/nominal exposure. Note the HDR outside and inside detail. The HDR processing was done with Photomatix software. This technique applied to interior decorating and architectural photography provides for an outstanding quality product. High dynamic interior scenes with lots of glass and a sunny day may need as many as six 1.5 to 2.0 stops apart or nine exposures 1 stop apart. If bracketing exceeds more than three, shooting manually would probably the  thing to do.

Outdoors HDR picture taking however, requires a number of conditions that are kind of tough to get. One can take any good single exposure shot anywhere, anytime under any condition. Not so with HDR imaging.

HD images taken with people in the frame requires these subjects to be motionless for the duration of  the triple exposures needed. Anything that moves, looses its crispness but sometimes can accentuate something in the image to make it outstanding. Landscape photography requires a wind still moment. No movement can be tolerated otherwise greenery of any kind becomes a blurry scene during the lapse of time it takes to take the three exposures destroying the objectivity of the shot. As a point of interest, if the wind rocks the lens 1 minute (1/60 degree) left and right, (two minutes total) an object at 100 feet (120 inches) moves about an imaginary* 0.070 inch total. That is enough to remove tag sharp quality from an image.

* It is not the scenery that moves but the lens and camera on the tripod.

Some HDR processing software like Photomatix, provide for "Source Subject Realignment" and "Ghosting Artifact Reduction" allowing for a certain amount of subject movement realignment. This usually goes at the cost of some loss of image sharpness.  What's left one would say? Still's, early morning and/or night scenes, buildings, churches, architectural, indoor/outdoor decorating all  make excellent subjects especially if you pay attention to the available light. Momentary light sources such as fill flash can not be used although fore ground fill lightning in the form of soft box light or even a simple hand light (stationary positioned) can do wonders.

Camera settings

  • Select a low ISO setting to reduce noise and to allow cropping
  • Select a shooting program that allows selective settings.
  • Make sure the pop-up flash is OFF.
  • Use a tripod! Do not bother to try hand held or beanbag support. It does not work!
  • Use a cable release and hold the button when taking the shot sequence.
  • To obtain three equally timed consecutive shots, set the camera to "Continuous" shooting mode.
  • Set the camera to auto-exposure-bracketing (AEB)
  • Set the Auto-Exposure-Bracketing increment setting to +/- 2 stops.
  • Select an aperture setting
  • After composing and focusing, lock the mirror to reduce vibration.

Night or twilight photography may require a light meter if the exposure levels go beyond the slowest camera exposure settings and into the "bulb" method of setting . Also, paper and pencil may help you calculate the "bulb" bracketing settings.

Shooting HDR

  • Always use Aperture Priority to assure same DOF.
  • The only shooting variation you want is an exposure duration
  • In order to capture as much detail in foreground and the distance, use f-8 -- f-11.
  • Your shooting from a tripod therefore, it does not matter how long the shot takes. 
  • Choose a calm day. Remember the wind can move your equipment.
  • Have someone with you to help carry whatever you have.
  • Use a cable or electronic shutter release cable to trigger the shutter.
  • Use a lens hood to prevent stray lights creating halo's and ruining your shot.
  • Reset/recheck the auto-bracketing settings before taking the second or backup shot. Some cameras loose these settings after triggering the shutter and/or shutting the camera off.
Processing you HDR Images
I have processed HDR images with Photoshop CS2 and other available software. Photoshop CS2 has limited HDR capabilities and have no clue what extended capabilities are offered in Photoshop CS3 and CS4.  A HDR software related Google search let me to Photomatix, Picturenaut and a number of other ones. (Photomatix is a product of Hdrsoft, has unlimites product trail and cost $99.00. Picturenaut is a product of Hdrlabs and is a giveaway.) After trying a few, I choose Photomatix as being the most capable and offering the most features.
 
Photomatix is fairly simple to operate and offers the following capabilities.
  • Creating an HDR image from multiple exposed images applying Tone Mapping -- Detail Enhancing method.
  • Creating an HDR image from multiple exposed images applying Tone mapping -- Tone Compression method.
  • Creating a HDR image using Exposure Blending.
  • Creating an HDR image from one RAW image
  • Batch Processing of the above.

Image in-process evaluation and criteria.

  • Information from the camera image EXIF data.
  • Relative brightness levels of the input images.

Input files accepted,

  • 8 & 16 bit files
  • Jpeg, Tiff, Psd, Dng and RAW files of many camera manufacturers

Output file capability,

  • Tiff 8 & 16 Bit, Jpeg
  • Optional select saving of the process file in XMP format accessible in the image file for reference using Photoshop,  File > Info > Advanced.

A product manual is available on the Photomatix download site. I suggest highly to try the Photomatix and get the manual for orientation.

Photomatix Comments
Photomatix is a remarkable product. I have done a fair number of multiple bracketed exposed images and many single RAW pictures from my archive and compared them to the same previously processed  images on file. Here is my opinion on both.

Three images bracketed two stop apart can make for an outstanding picture. Six images 1.5 stops apart make an even better one and for some bright lit inside/outside scenes Photomatix recommend nine images one stop apart.  I have not had the opportunity to do the latter however, I have however experimented adequately with two-stop bracketed HDR images because my Canon 50D has simple camera setting capabilities to make "triple image two-stop bracketed" picture taking rather simple. I am impressed with the results of the two-stop bracketed HDR pictures but I am very impressed with the pseudo HDR images obtained from a single RAW image!

Below is an example of a triple image Photomatix processed HDR Image.

Image as shot AE

Image EA minus 2

Image EA plus 2

Final HDR Image

When it comes to a single processed image, there is no question about it! A single RAW Images processed with Photomatix compared to images processed manually with Photoshop, Dxo, Therapy or Canon EOS professional, have more luminance, proper contrast, better highlights and as a whole look better.  In addition, Photomatix gives one an opportunity to enhance and change the character of the image. See the example below.

Photomatix Pseudo HDR-click 2x

Original Image, Photoshop Edited

How did Photomatix do this? Probably by creating two additional images in memory,  two exposure levels apart using the EXIF data from the original RAW input image and reassembling the original and the two pseudo images into a tone mapped end result. Clever and rewarding! One can also take a RAW image, use any RAW editor like Photoshop to make two copies each two exposure values plus and minus and use the Photomatix multiple image input HDR processor to generate a similar or better quality HDR picture. Better yet, take one deserving JPEG image, use an editor to make two copies, one plus two exposure values and the other minus two exposure values then use the Photomatix multiple image input HDR processor to generate a noticeable improved HDR picture!

This technique and the software are opening up a whole new way of generating high quality selective imaging making adaptable to landscape, stills, architectural and many other non-activity  photography. Now we need a new camera with three processors making three images at once, each two stops apart to create high dynamic range action photography.

What else do we crave?

Note, A number of HDR images can be found on the following pages of this web site.

For Canon 20D and up users

As a matter of convenience for myself, I wrote a the working sequence as related to shooting HDR images on 4 x6 inch standard size glossy print stock  to refer to in the event of senior citizen moment. For those readers who own Canon digital SLR's the instructions are below. Copy them if you can make use of them!

Canon 50D HDR Camera Setting for 2 stop bracketed exposure
  1.     Removing focusing from the shutter button:
          Menu – Use Main Dial to Select last Camera    Icon – Turn Quick Dial to go to the
          -- C-FN IV (4) and select setting --  2 -- to activate the AF- ON button removing the
          focusing from the shutter button and to prevent re-focusing lens creep
  2.     Press the ISO button -- and turn the main Dial to set desired ISO
  3.     Select desired Aperture, (aperture should not change during HDR shooting)
  4.     Set Exposure bracketing as follows;
           Menu – Use Quick Dial -- to select the Second Camera icon
          a.       Select – Expo Comp AEB
           Leave center pointer at – 0 -- unless favoring under/over exposure value for all bracketed
           frames.
          b.       Use the Quick Dial -- to Set exposure Bracketing to two stops apart
          c.       Press the SET Button -- to lock the setting
  5.     Pres & Hold – the AF– Drive button and turn the Quick Dial to select the Continuous or “H" 
           shooting   mode
  6.     If Self-timer is used instead of a shutter cable Press – AF-Drive – turn Main Dial to select
           the self-timer symbol in the AF- Drive window  
  7.     Mount camera on tripod & set lens stabilization switch to – Off --
  8.     If a shutter release cable is used, attach the cable
  9.     Press the Live-View button and compose the frame in the LCD window
10.     Press the --  AF/ON button to set the focus
11.     Check the composition, correct if necessary and press the AF/ON to re-focus
12.     Press the shutter release cable button and hold it until the camera stops shooting,
          (3 consecutive frames) or, press the shutter release button to start the self-timer
13.     To preserve the bracketing settings, Do Not shut-off the camera!
14.     When done, reverse all settins
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